In the morning I helped Jeff clean up a tree that was down in the yard and took a dip in Lake Superior before hitting the road.


I took my leave of my wonderful hosts Sarah and Jeff and was quickly reminded of my shifting issues when I hit the first hill. I decided I needed to stop later in the day at the bike shop in Bayfield to have it sorted out.
I was coming to Apostle Islands National Lakeshore, it was one of the reasons that I made my route go along the edge of Lake Superior. I had been so focused on the imperatives of covering the miles, finding food, water, shelter and bathrooms that I didn’t look down my route and realize I was getting close to Apostle Islands and I should make a plan to get in some kind of boat to see them. So I was feeling a bit of a failure when I saw the first beach access called Meyer’s Beach. But I could see Lake Superior not too far down the entrance road and decided I should at least go and stick my foot in the water.
The parking lot was packed with folks getting ready to hike or kayak and there was a park ranger making sure everyone was informed and following the rules. I walked down and saw the beach and when I got back to the parking lot, I started a conversation with the park ranger, telling her my sad story of not planning ahead. She said there must be four different kayak outfitters in the parking lot right now and I should ask them if they had an extra boat that could join them on a tour in. So that’s what I did, the first one wasn’t going out in the afternoon but he introduced me to Morgan and Brooklyn, guides for White Cap Kayak outfitters who were going out in a half hour. And it took a little digging but they came up with room in a kayak, a paddle, a spray skirt and a life jacket! Now all I had to do was pay and fill out the paperwork on my phone.
I was paired in a tandem kayak with a young woman named Aiden. I’m afraid I talked her ear off and was taking pictures when I needed to be paddling but she was kind and gracious and forgave me. She lives in Wisconsin and is currently going to school to be an early childhood teacher, such an important job, she will be great.
After we carried the kayaks down to the beach, Morgan and Brooklyn instructed us in the basics of kayaking and safety. Then we paddled down the mainland coastline to what they called Sea Caves. I think they should be called lake caves but what do I know. They were incredible! I was almost giddy.






Morgan and Brooklyn were very knowledgeable guides and did an excellent job leading us. Thank you!

I think I had totally forgotten about my shifting woes but I was quickly reminded. And after getting through Bayfield, WI, I pulled into the parking lot of Howl Adventure Center to see about having them sort out my shifting. The only problem was because of my Apostle Island National Lakeshore outing, I was too late. All the bike mechanics had gone home for the day. The Howl Adventure Center was also a cafe and microbrewery so it was open and the good folks there let me borrow some tools to try to fix my shifter. I was coming up empty so I called my boss, Chris, at Bike Line in Middletown Delaware and he FaceTimed me to give me some insight. I still couldn’t figure it out and it had started raining so I went out back and set up my tent. I would have to see if the mechanics who came in the morning could work it out.

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